In the garment industry, sewing machine thread is considered a `material’. But its interplay with the sewing machine can affect production efficiency, seam quality and the finished garment product appearance. One of the most important but often overlooked factors is thread friction.
The thread is fed through a series of tension discs, guides, needles, textile material and other components of the machine at high velocity. In this swinging movement, there is a contact friction of this thread with these surfaces. Excessive friction or uneven friction can cause thread breakage, irregular stitches, heating up of the needle, thread failure, minimisation of machine operation efficiency, etc. Therefore, it is crucial for modern garment makers to be familiar with and to control the operation of thread friction.
What Is Thread Friction?
The force created when a component of sewing thread rubs against another component of sewing thread is called thread friction. At the time of sewing, the thread can come in contact with:
- Thread guides and tension components
- Needle eye and needle groove
- Presser foot and throat plate
- Fabric layers
- Bobbins and hook mechanisms
- Other sections of the sewing machine
Friction varies depending on such factors as fabric characteristics, thread material, surface finish, lubrication, twist, thickness, machine speed, and needle size.
Ideally, the thread should stream through the machine with adequate tension without losing strength.
Why Thread Friction Matters in Sewing Operations
It is true that the sewing machines that are in use these days are very fast machines, working with the modern industry. Even small losses in friction can make a big difference at these speeds.
This excessive tension in the thread during travel through the machine can be due to high friction. This can result in:
- Frequent thread breakage
- Uneven stitch formation
- Skipped or loose stitches
- Excessive needle heating
- Irregular seam appearance
- Increased machine stoppages
- Reduced sewing productivity
On the other hand, controlled friction ensures a smooth movement of the thread through the machine, ensuring proper tension at all stages of production and stable stitches.
Impact on Sewing Machine Performance
The friction has a direct effect on the smooth operations of a sewing machine. Whenever the thread offers too much resistance, the machine has to push with more force against the various points of contact the thread has to go through.
This may induce tension instability, which can be a problem. The operator can compensate by making multiple adjustments to the tension settings, but this often does not address the cause of the problem. If the threads are not ‘even’, the machine may not even stitch from one seam to the next.
High friction also can help to cause needle heating. At high sewing speeds friction on the thread, needle and fabric produces heat. Too hot temperatures can cause some synthetic thread to loosen, which may cause thread failure.
These small problems can easily escalate into lost productivity for high-volume factories.
Effect on Garment Seam Quality
The effects of thread friction are not just limited to machine performance. They have an immediate impact on the way the garments look and last.
If threads loosen or tighten, the stitches might be loose or tight. Seam pucker, distortion, and/or unevenness may occur. With light fabric, too much tension can cause the fabric to pucker or bunch together.
These blemishes can diminish the quality perception of clothes in contexts with high demands on appearance (formal wear, sportswear, sexy wear and high-quality clothing).
Friction of the thread is consistent, and all help to maintain:
- Uniform stitch formation
- Balanced seam tension
- Clean seam appearance
- Better fabric handling
- Improved seam durability
- Reduced puckering and distortion
Purpose of Thread Lubrication And Finish
Different finishes and lubricants are applied to the thread by the manufacturer to regulate the friction between the thread and the needle and to facilitate sewing. These kinds of therapies may be useful to help the thread pass easily through guides, needles and fabric.
A proper finish decreases unneeded friction and does not have any adverse effect on other properties of the thread. But also too many lubricating conditions may cause staining, and the doom of machine parts or uneven handling of the thread can be a problem.
Accordingly, thread finish should be made in consideration of the given application, machine speed, fabric type and required seam performance.
Thread Material and Construction
The various kinds of thread have different properties and characteristics which are reflected in their behaviour during sewing. For instance, polyesters are a popular choice for threads (trilobal polyester thread) that are used widely due to their strength, dimensional stability and versatility. Nylon threads can be very strong and flexible, and the surface and heat properties of cotton threads are different from those of nylon.
Another factor that is related to the construction of thread is friction. The different types of thread can be spun, filament, core-spun, or bonded and have different behaviours when operating in machine components.
So, care must be taken by manufacturers to consider the other properties besides tensile strength and cost when they choose their threads. Additional performance and frictional properties may need to be considered when sewing.
Machine Speed and Friction
As sewing speed increases, the effect of thread friction becomes more important. With high-speed modes, there is a greater interaction case between machine components and the thread, which means that there is a higher chance of heat buildup and thread (flame-resistant sewing thread) stress.
Fabrications with very fast automated sewing machines should consider the following:
- Thread quality and consistency
- Needle selection
- Machine tension settings
- Thread path and guides
- Lubrication and thread finish
- Machine maintenance
- Operating speed
An effective thread in a moderate-speed situation may not be the thread that works in a high-speed production line.
How Manufacturers Can Control Thread Friction
Smart management of thread friction demands cross-work collaboration from the thread supplier, machine user, production engineer, and quality control team.
The following are some best practices:
- Choosing the right type of thread for the cloth and machine.
- Using the correct needle size and needle type.
- Clean and well-aligned thread guides.
- Soothing of excessive tensions in thread.
- Temperature controls machine speeds and needle temperatures.
- Inspection of lubrication and surface finish of thread.
- Doing a sewing trial before mass production.
- Use of production indicators such as thread breakage and stitch failures.
Maintenance is also crucial when using machines, as worn or broken guides, tension discs, and needle plates can cause friction, which can break the thread.
Sustainability and Production Efficiency
There is also a continual indirect link between thread friction and sustainability. The problem of too much thread breakage leads to loss of material, rework, machine downtime, and extra energy.
Choosing these straight threads, which move easily and consistently, can minimize production opportunities where parts have to be rejected and increase the first pass. Less waste due to fewer defective garments, etc.
Thus, managing thread friction is not just a quality control problem, but it can also help to improve manufacturing efficiency and sustainability.
Conclusion
While friction on the thread may seem like a minor detail, it can affect the entire sewing process. But from machine speed and needle temperature to stitch consistency and garment appearance, friction is a crucial factor in determining how efficient a thread can be.
The best strength thread or the cheapest thread is not suitable. It must be of sufficient strength, stiffness, surface finish, lubrication, construction, and frictional properties required to perform the application.
Garment manufacturers who are familiar with the principle of thread friction will be able to reduce thread breakage, create better seams, machine down time, and boost production efficiency. The interactivity of the thread and the machine is an issue that will be more crucial in the near future when sewing technology is speeding up and is more automated, with the aim of obtaining uniform and good-quality garments.
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